For a truly Roman experience, join the queue at Gino. It seems incredible that such an unreconstructed trattoria could survive so close to the political and media power hub. That is, until you realise that Italy's politicos and journalists, for all their airs, are alarmed by cordon bleu refinements and like nothing better than a steaming plate of spaghetti all'amatriciana (with a sauce of tomatoes, onions, pork cheek and pecorino) and a carafe of honest (ie rough) house wine. House specialities include coniglio al vino bianco (rabbit in white wine) and an excellent tiramisù.
