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RICCIOLI CAFE

Piazza delle Coppelle 10a, Navona (00 39 06 6821 0313). For something a little more post-moderne, head for the Riccioli Café in via delle Coppelle, just north of the Pantheon. An offshoot of La Rosetta, Rome's top fish-restaurant, this wine bar offers a dozen variations on the classic dry martini - there's even an oyster martini, made with Old Raj gin and, yes, a whole oyster. During happy hour, from 7pm to 9pm, raw seafood snacks are served.

 
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